Damp investigations

Stage 1: visual inspection

Equipment for stage 1

  • notebook and pencil or a means of recording information;
  • compass;
  • tape measure;
  • torch (but extra lighting needed for dark interiors); and
  • binoculars.

Stage 1: the visual inspection of the property

You probably have an insight into the basic construction and age of the building from the initial briefing. This also gives you enough information to be able to plan the visit in terms of time and equipment. Pre-inspection procedures are described in Building surveys of residential property.

Good time management is essential. Armed with only your senses and elementary tools it is often possible to get right to the root of the property's condition, and the risk that it might present to a prospective purchaser, after just a few minutes' visual inspection.

Example

On an inspection in Camberwell, South London, the key property condition risk was observed and noted before the doorbell was rung. Looking up under the front porch I could see an impressive array of dry rot fruiting bodies (figure 13). Moving a step back and looking upwards above the porch I saw the sorry state of the front rainwater downpipe and hopper head. This seemed to link directly with the dry rot symptoms a few feet below. It was obvious that the downpipes had been leaking for some time, with masonry stained and wet around the defective plumbing goods and brickwork streaked green at lower levels. As the front door swung open I saw that there were yet more fruiting bodies clinging to the door frame architrave and having caused dado rails to show the characteristic cuboidal cracking associated with dry rot (Serpula lacrymans) (see figures 14 and 15). The reinstatement required to finishes and structure at this damp zone would involve considerable joinery and plastering works: the outbreak had spread into the first floor construction too. Such extensive repair would be significant to the house buyer, who had not expected before the survey that such expensive repairs would be needed.

Figure 1: Saturated section of partition wall where staircase abuts. High moisture levels where the timber string of the stairs is in contact with the wall. The cause of the dampness was first thought to have been due to the lack of a tile splashback and mastic joint behind the kitchen sink unit on the other side of the partition wall. The actual cause was water leaking from a burst water main adjacent to the property which saturated the solid floor in the kitchen under the linoleum floor covering

Figure 2: Sections of perforated, zinc-coated, steel 'barrel', potable water main supply pipe. These sections of pipe were located just outside a 1920s cottage in London where the pipe had been laid into the ground at a depth of approximately 750mm. The steel pipe had been laid without any protection other than the zinc coating. Zinc is a sacrificial anode and will, in aggressive soil, eventually break down, enabling the steel pipe to perforate causing a waste of water

 

Figure 3: Blue detergent water in a blocked back inlet gully. The cast-iron pipe takes waste water from the bathroom into a hopper at the head of the pipe. Nowadays the pipe would be let below the cover grill of the gully or connected directly to the branch drain. Regular clearance of external gullies is necessary to prevent leaf litter and airborne detritus causing blockages. Pre-formed cover guards can be installed to prevent blockages from blown material, abuse or accident

 

Figure 4: Effects of a long-term waste of water problem from a discharging overflow pipe. Green algae and white efflorescence on the face of the wall is a typical signature of prolonged saturation of the masonry. Water had penetrated the solid wall into the habitable space above the horizontal dpc. This frame indicates the importance of external observations in relation to internal dampness

 

Figure 5: Extensive damage to a brick built chimney stack. Lightning had struck the stepped lead, apron flashings around the base of the stack and transferred down through the lead valley gutter, splitting the gutter through most of its length. The collapsed masonry fell through the tiled apex roof, damaging the ceiling in one of the upper bedrooms. Luckily no one was injured. Heavy rain from the storm ensured that copious amounts of rainwater entered the upper rooms of the building causing widespread damage

 

Figure 6: A former Victorian single dwelling converted into 3 separate flats. The overflow pipes were routed from the bathroom out over the window areas. The thinking behind the routing of most overflow pipes is to position the end of the pipe externally in a location likely to cause inconvenience so that occupants of the building raise the alarm when a waste of water occurs. In this case the flats were unoccupied: there was no one either at home or with any interest to raise the alarm. Landlords and building owners alike should consider as far as is practicable the reduction in stored water within empty dwellings – although electronic warning devices exist that can remotely alert the owners to a problem. The alternative is to drain water tanks and turn off water isolation valves. The damage caused to the upper flats in this case resulted in thousands of pounds of remedial works to repair rotted timber windows, internal replastering, damaged timber floorboards, joist ends, skirting boards and ceiling damage (not to mention redecoration). All for the price of a couple of defective ball valves.

 

Figure 7: Severe condensation on the kitchen ceiling of this basic dwelling. High occupation, under-heating, the use of liquid based fuel heaters, the drying of clothes internally, lack of adequate ventilation or thermal insulation, and poor design (bathroom leading off the kitchen to the ground floor) all contributed to this problem. The occupants were found to be in severe fuel poverty

 

Figure 8: Front elevation of a period property in Brighton on the English south coast. The deterioration of the paintwork, cast-iron balustrade and metal rainwater pipes is common in marine residences. The aggressive atmosphere around coastal locations is due to the high chloride content resulting from the presence of sea water. The chloride-rich salt water and wind-blown rain, from prevailing westerly Atlantic air systems, present huge challenges for the maintenance and protection of buildings from water ingress, corrosion and degradation. Some of the earliest examples of cavity walls can be found in coastal towns – as part of the early builder’s primary defence against water ingress into the habitable space as well as a method of thermal insulation

 

Figure 9: Timber suspended floor in the kitchen of a Victorian end of terrace property. The timber floor was subjected to the effects of dry rot caused by a leaking lead water main laid under the suspended floor on the oversite. It is common in Victorian properties to find original lead water mains laid under suspended floors and routed to kitchens at the rear. Over the years, previous owners had built up the external path and patio, raising the ground levels and blocking the perimeter wall subfloor air vents as well as bridging the horizontal physical dpc in the walls. The leaky water main was hydrating the under-floor area. This became an ideal environment for dry rot which proliferated, causing widespread damage and the eventual collapse of the timber floor

 

Figure 10: Black circles evident on a ground floor in a tenement block (c1900). The pattern of black staining is consistent with the locations of ferrous nail fixings. The timber floors had been laid directly onto a clinker ash substrate coated with pitch tar acting as a damp-proof membrane. Over a considerable period of time ground moisture had gradually been introduced into the timber boards from each corroding nail fixing. Naturally the process of wet rot to the timbers would speed up considerably if linoleum or foam-backed carpet was overlaid on the floorboards. This problem can be found up and down the country in many properties built in the 1920s

 

Figure 11: A classic case of bridging of the horizontal dpc at a solid bay wall in a Victorian property built around 1900. Successive owners of the property have built up the abutting external ground levels. Note the location of the through wall subfloor air vents. Rainwater had penetrated through the vents causing localised flooding of the internal subfloor oversite resulting in a severe damp problem internally at the living room wall. Wet rot of the internal subfloor timbers was also in evidence

 

Figure 12: The grassy bank and stone wall abutting the rear elevation solid wall to the back addition of a late Victorian property was clearly causing bridging of the horizontal dpc at the wall, leading to a severe internal damp penetration problem

Figure 13: (a) A dry rot fruiting body under the entrance porch. This suggests a significant threat to the property and was spotted before the doorbell had even been rung. (b) A closer look at the fungus near the rainwater pipe bend

Figure 14: Cuboidal cracking to skirting – the classic work of Serpula lacrymans (dry rot); but watch out for other symptoms too, such as the thick conductor strands behind the plaster. Surprisingly, at this advanced stage of the outbreak, moisture meter readings in the timber may not be high

dry rot fungus

Figure 15: Fruiting body of the dry rot fungus Serpula Lacrymans

Checklist for stage 1 inspection

Use the following checklists to ensure that you check all relevant details during the stage 1 inspection.

Damp coursing:

  • Can you see an existing physical dpc? How high is it above the ground?
  • Is its efficiency likely to be compromised by poor wall detailing?
  • Can you see evidence of a retrofit dpc installation either externally (e.g. drill holes) or internally (e.g. new plasters or perhaps new skirting boards)?
  • What is the relationship between internal floor level and external ground level?
  • Is a wall plaster in contact with a damp floor?

Remember that application of dense renders internally may well have created dry internal plaster conditions, but could be concealing or creating a damp problem behind.

Building improvements likely to affect moisture levels:

  • Are there any changes in building usage recently or in the past that would affect moisture levels today?
  • Did dampness become a problem after a building repair or improvement?
  • Are any guarantees or supporting paperwork available for repairs/improvements?
  • Have there been any works to solve a moisture-related problem, such as the provision of extraction fans?

Symptoms of defects:

  • If there are visible damp areas or patches, or areas subject to condensation-led moulds, are they restricted to particular walls, elevations, or other places? Why?
  • Does dampness appear in particular weather conditions or seasons or after certain activities?
  • Are there signs of rain penetration externally? (Look for: the development of green algae; signs of rainsplash at the foot of a wall; areas of paving that are badly drained; cracked renders or plinths that trap moisture;  north-facing walls or walls that never dry out; and so on.) Many materials darken when wet, a useful indicator of dampness.
  • How does an actual or perceived dampness problem affect the building's occupier?
  • Signs of fungal decay or beetle attack indicate significant moisture levels in timber, often due to close contact with damp masonry.

In a stage 1 inspection, you will typically note:

  • the raising of external ground levels, the provision of ramps and steps;
  • replacement of timber floors;
  • blocking of floor ventilation internally or externally or creation of dead ends;
  • removal of flues, or closing off of ventilation grilles or vents, and capping off of stacks without allowing for ventilation;
  • window or door replacement;
  • changes to heating and ventilation systems;
  • lack of maintenance to the building fabric, often at high level or to rarely accessed elevations;
  • changes to wall finishes externally or internally;
  • changes in lifestyle of occupiers, overcrowding;
  • rooms cluttered with furniture, equipment or personal effects to restrict air movement;
  • poorly sited radiators;
  • boiler too small for property;
  • rooms unused during the cold season without background heating;
  • heavy production of moisture internally through overcrowded spaces, methods of cooking, heating and washing, or large numbers of pot plants or fish tanks;
  • lack of ventilation to rooms with high moisture generation;
  • methods of construction that incorporate cold bridges or are under-insulated, promoting cold internal surfaces and hence condensation;
  • methods of construction that trap moisture, preventing it from draining externally;
  • cold north elevations, shaded elevations, or elevations facing the prevailing wind (e.g. SW); and
  • don’t forget to speak to the building occupiers or building owners about the problems and history of problems relating to the dampness.

overflow

Figure 16: Leaking overflow pipes – cause of slime mould internally

green slime

Figure 17: Green slime mould in kitchen (internal wall at abutment to external solid wall) caused by leaking overflow

victorian

Figure 18: External solid wall of an early Victorian property where the remedy to cure the dampness internally was to insert a series of retrofit clay or ceramic tubes into the wall to help dissipate the moisture. The inserted tubes have been placed at height above the internal floor level

brown water stain

Figure 19: Brown water staining caused by blockages within the chimney cavity. This was due to fallen rubble and flaunching from the chimney stack above the roof enabling rainwater ingress into the chimney cavity affecting the top floor bedroom

water pump

Figure 20: Early Victorian water pump indicates a possible location of a high water table

Advice to client

By this stage you may already be able to state a 'strong professional opinion' concerning simple condensation problems, obvious penetrating damp problems, or plumbing leaks. However, you will rarely be in a position to have anything other than an initial view regarding below-ground sourced moisture problems (such as rising damp).

So far you will not have made direct measurement of moisture content in walls. If further investigation is needed to verify whether significant dampness exists to part of the building, or to advise on causation or the need for remedy, it is at this point that you may offer the service of a further investigation yourself, depending on your expertise. If the further investigation is passed on to another you should, where possible, help your client by following it up. You should describe the further investigation necessary (as advised in Building surveys of residential property) and you should endeavour to obtain access to any of the specialist report findings in order to help your client understand their implications. (Reports by specialists are sometimes overburdened with standard word-processed information. If they do not seem to be reporting closely on the subject property, they should be viewed with suspicion.)